171206: Edinburgh

Woke up at 6am. Damn tired. Last night sleep 11pm because of the stupid Bluetooth transfer. Anyway, since fucking tired, decided to skip sunrise at Calton Hill, go straight to the castle. So I sleep further till 9am. But fucking hell those people in my room all leaving around that time. Then a lot of people wake up around that time also. End up gotta wait for the toilet. Sian. Decided to eat breakfast instead. Make the coffee they supplied, very tasteless. Pay peanuts, get monkeys. Can’t help it. Change and pack up my stuff, decided that right after I wash up, can pick up my bag then go walk walk liao. Anyway, reach the castle at around 10am. Along the way, all the scenery damn beautiful. Take a lot of pictures. At the castle, finally get to see Arthur’s Seat in daylight. Damn swee. Paid my ticket, and ask for BOE (Bank of England) note since they gave me BOS change.

Went in, really like fairy tale scene. People who are Lord of the Rings fans and do know about castles, will know that it is very similar and familiar to those castle scenes. The 1^st gate I pass through is the gate tower, built in 1887. Walk through the tower, got a guard room on the right. Now the guard becomes a gift shop. Starting from the gate, paths are mostly cobble stones, which means damn slippery when wet. Need to be damn careful. Approximately 15 steps from the 1^st gate is a place called the 1^st barrier. It was the site of the gate and drawbridge before its current location in the 16^th century. Then walk further uphill, on the left got a monument on the wall (the Brits like to do that, save a lot of space) in memory of Sir William K-something, can’t really remember. Dunno what he does anyway, will know later. Right in front of me was a gate called Portcullis Gate, those wooden ones that slides upwards (or do you call it draws upwards?) and got spikes below the gate. Typical of a castle defence. Pass through the gate, there’s a iron flight of steps leading to a platform beside the castle wall on the right. Apparently people add that on for perfect view of the city. And it really is. Fucking breathtaking. In the morning sun, can see everything below the castle. From the St Giles Cathedral on the right to Firth of Forth at the very horizon and I-dunno-what’s-there to the left, the north view is damn beautiful. Partially is because I’m on top on a castle rock, but that’s another issue. Right beside the wall of terrific scenery (I dunno what the wall is called) is a battery of cannons, placed perpendicular to the curved wall forming a obvious round defence for this face. Behind the cannons, there’s a cliff with some signs below. Those signs tell of the general outline of castle history. On the left of the cliff is a flight of stairs called the Lang Stairs, lang meaning long. It leads up the Portcullis gate to the Argyle tower, right above the gate, where 9^th Earl of Argyle was supposed to be confined before his execution. What he is beheaded for I dunno, but definitely something that make his beheader mad. Within the tower is a model of the castle, made during the 19^th century. The modeling skills then were really good, comparable to the ones we have now. The room a slightly dark, and definitely got the I’m-imprisoned-here-before-I-died-against-my-will atmosphere. The room also documented a blueprint of a supposed major alteration to the castle, make it look like French chateau. But because of widespread opposition (the Scots are really proud people), it was scrapped. Out of the tower, the Lang Stairs should lead me up to the summit of the castle rock, which it did.

At the end of the Lang Stairs, there’s a battery (under preservation maintenance) on my left, a half-crescent battery further left, the Scottish National War Museum right in front of me, the gradual slope that leads down the castle, and a chapel on my right. I went to the chapel 1^st. I’m not a Christian, but the Chapel sounds very interesting. It’s the oldest building on the castle, built around the 12^th century for Saint Margaret. According to Scottish history, Margaret was a Queen by marriage (meaning she married a King) and was made a Saint by Pope Innocent (I dunno which Pope, but definitely not the 1^st and this Pope recognizes the Scottish Crown a lot, as I’ll tell in the later part). Anyway, the chapel is really small, smaller than my bedroom in Singapore. There’s a simple altar, then some seats at the side of the chapel, with tinted glass windows. Simple and sweet. The entire internal walls were whitewashed, to make it look brighter I guess. Right outside the chapel is a big big cannon. The cannon ball is even bigger than the caliber size of FH2000’s 120mm round. The cannon is called Mon Megs, made in Mon, Belgium and presented to King James II in 1457. It was used in the war against the English, but soon after only used in ceremonial salutes for VIPs. Its broken after its barrel burst in 1681, but given the size of its barrel it can fit 1 normal human being in! By normal I mean slim and tender type, not those with fat asses, big bellies or inhuman busts. Beside Mon Megs lies a sign that says Dog Cemetery. Used to bury ceremonial mascots and officers’ dogs. Even dogs get to be recognized and allowed to bury in the castle. Kaoz. After this part, I went to the other side of Lang Stairs, the other end where the half-crescent battery lies. This battery platform was built after a massive invasion that results in a lot of destruction. Anyway, the battery doesn’t really seem that interesting to me, only a few cannons in a crescent formation. Between the Scottish National War Museum (its backside) and the half crescent battery, I found a path of steps leading downwards. It’s the remains of David’s tower that once stands on that site before the half crescent battery was built. Going down the steps and into the room, it’s a shocking comparison. Right in front of me was a room with some red light, quite a bit of debris and quite dark. It is said to be the burial spot of the Honours of the Scottish Crown during WW2. At that time, Germany is really fucking powerful in 1941 and Britain is worried about a German invasion. Hence Scotland made the decision to bury the Honours at the David’s Tower (more like a cellar) and its location was only known to 4 people, the King, Secretary of State, Duke of Edinburgh I think, and for some fucking reason, the Governor General of Canada. They suppose the secret is safer across the Atlantic should Britain fall. What a laugh. Anyway, on the left of the main room was a dark cellar like cavern (not even like a room). Here is a room where a lot of soldiers died during an invasion. I can’t remember what invasion, but around 15 skeletons of soldiers were found in this room. They were supposed to be firing a cannon at the higher corner of the room, the cannon hole was later covered by the half-crescent battery. Very sad life. Out of this 2 rooms, there’s another door that leads to a room. Supposed to be the site of a Black Dinner. The Stewart King then wanted to suppress the rivals to the Crown, especially Black Douglass. So he invited the 2 brothers over for dinner at the David’s Tower. Somewhere along the dinner, someone served a buffalo head which is a sign that someone was supposed to die (I dunno why). The King accused the brothers of treason and had them executed. The next room is just plain cavern carved out of rock and sand. Got 2 models, 1 holding a crossbow and 1 kid holding a arrow. Should be a crossbowman during the medieval era. And the spot is where they fired. Came out of David’s Tower to the most important part of the castle.

The main part of the castle is 4 buildings built with a square in the middle. There’s the Royal Palace, the Great Hall, Queen Anne’s Chambers and the Scottish National War Museum. I came to that part through a path between the Royal Palace and the museum, and there’s another path out between Queen Anne’s Chambers and the museum. The museum should be a fairly new structure. Anyway the Royal Palace 1^st.

The Royal Palace is the place where the Royals stay, duh. But the Honours are placed here as well, i.e the Crown room. Actually, the palace is now a museum showing what the Honours are and how they are significant, particularly highlighting the life of the Scottish Kings and Queens. The Honours of the Scottish Crown refer to the Crown, the Sword of State, the Sceptre and a rock called the Stone of Destiny, often referred to as the Scone. The circlet Crown was 1^st used by King Robert the Bruce, subsequently modified to the current velvet type full Crown. The more unusual thing would be the Sword of State and the Sceptre. They were presented to the Scottish throne by Popes! Once Catholic, the Kings had requested for the coronation and anointment of the throne in the Catholic tradition from various Popes. Finally they get to do it, and it’s supposed to signify that the Pope had recognized their Kingdom as independent and sovereign, i.e the Vatican is of even higher authority than the monarch of the kingdom! Scottish history focus quite a lot on Queens, particularly Queen Mary. It was in history that Mary is the Queen of Scots, with a claim to the English throne. She was crowned when she’s only 5 days old! After that she went to France to live till she was 18 then move back to start her reign. This Queen was forced to abdicate in favour of her son, James, after being accused of murder. She escaped to England and was imprisoned for 20 years before being executed. Her son finally did become the King of Scots and subsequently also the English King. In defence of the Queen and her Crown and Honours, Sir William K-something that I talked about previously defended Edinburgh Castle with the Honours in them against the King’s supporters. There’s a party supporting the Queen, and a party wanting the Queen to step down for her son. Simple as that. The King’s party invaded Edinburgh Castle successfully, then executed Sir William K-something (I still can’t remember his surname). Now to the Stone of Destiny. A very funny story. It is said that Scottish Kings are crowned on the Stone of Destiny, i.e they did not have a throne to start with. This Scone became the central point of the monarchy, and was brought to Westminister Abbey to be kept there after the invasion of the English. Recently, the Scone is returned to Edinburgh castle. After the palace, I went to the Great Hall, supposed to be a place for banquets now. Inside, there’s lots of displayed spears and swords, breastplates and helmets with small little mortars. Nothing much in there. Queen Anne’s Chambers is now a café that’s quite expensive, I didn’t go in. I went to the museum instead. It’s a building with a lion holding a shield with the Union’s symbol on the right of the main entrance, on the left is a horse holding a shield with the Scottish symbol. The museum is largely a monument to commemorate the men of the various arms and regiments of the Scottish armed forces, which is part of the British Royal Armed Forces. They even recognize the efforts of Scottish women and combat support people such as the medics and logisticians. Proud people, definitely.

Out of the museum, I went on the bath between the Queen Anne’s Chambers and the museum, to the gradual sloping path up the castle which I did not take earlier on. Going down the path, I came to a lower point in the castle, where it’s a crossroad of a few paths leading to a few places. I went down to the Low Defence, which is a garrison of cannons built by a general called Wade. Nothing much, but again the view of the city is mesmerizing. Back to the crossroad, I went to the western defence instead and was shown what’s a one-o’clock cannon. Its basically a cannon that works complementary to the time ball on Nelson’s monument on Calton Hill, telling old Edinburgh of the time. Back to the crossroads again, went down another path. This time to the War Museum, where it showcase Scottish military. This is more like a museum compared to the Scottish National War Museum. That’s more like Scottish National War Memorial lor. Anyway, the museum is alright la, nothing much to see, except that I finally understand why Britain got such a flag. The Scottish fights in kilts, which are skirts that men wear. Then saw a oil painting with Scottish soldiers in typical British red tops and kilts fighting a war in Egypt, WW1 or 2 I think. Quite funny to see men fight in skirts, but I guess they are really really proud of their roots and traditions. Even British armies now sometimes have the Scottish flag used. The museum used to be ordnance storage and a garrison hospital. In fact, within the castle, there are wells 34m deep and also a military prison. Never went to the Prisoners of War museum, kaoz. Can’t help it, no time. The military prison was used to imprison soldiers, Scottish included, who commits military crimes such as drunk on guard and desertion, common ones we see in all military today. Finally decided to exit the castle, it’s almost 2.30pm.

Went to buy lunch, hot panini. Kaoz, 3 quid but since it’s hot, it’s worth it. Decided to go Calton Hill to watch sunset, it’s almost time. On the way, I chanced upon a cemetery. It’s full of mausoleums like necropolis in Glasgow. Kaoz, damn nice. Then right in the middle got a obelisk tomb that’s so damn fucking high, I didn’t know it’s a tombstone when seen from the outside. Beyond the cemetery is the Calton Hill. Finally climbed up the hill. Like the castle, the view here is breathtaking. Unlike the castle, it gave a 360 degree view of Edinburgh. As what Ian would have said if he’s here, ‘I went to heaven and came back again’. Pictures taken here often can form a good contrast between urban developments and organic landscape. Particularly good is the view to see Arthur’s Seat. Gotta climb up the unfinished Partheon like monument. Damn damn beautiful. Being a dormant volcano, the sloping land is so fertile, the grass growing on it is simply orgasmic. 3.30pm. I once contemplated about climbing the hill. But fuck, it’s so damn far away! Nabeh. Since it’s only 3.30pm, might as well go to the Museum of Childhood I passed by yesterday. But fuck, I can’t find it anymore. Then an idiot like me still don’t wanna consult the guide. I end up not seeing it. My trip to Edinburgh ends with a almost complete exploration of its beautiful castle, a trip to Calton Hill, a nice surprise of Christmas and a whole lot of half fuck useless pride by not checking up the guide I paid 10 quid for. Damnit. Tomorrow I’m leaving Edinburgh for Liverpool. Hope it’ll be as fun as this city. I missed too much here, I’m coming back for more, including the Lothians and Highlands trip as well as trips to Loch Ness and Lomond!